Christmas in Turkey: the sequel December 26, 2008

This is my second Christmas in Turkey. Starting in November I start to get a little sad that I am here during the holiday season. I love all my friends and “Turkish” family here, but there is just something that always feels a little off. I used to take it for granted that Christmas was just everywhere in the US. You could not turn on a radio without Jingle Bell Rock or Silent Night playing, and every store was decorated to the hilt. I have always loved this, but I remember many a “Scrooge” saying how they hated all this music and this-n-that about the season. They should really just move to a Muslim country and give it a try. I am sure that 90% of the bah-hum-bugs out there would be singing a different tune come Christmas day. Malls put up generic decos, but that is it! When most Turks ask what you are doing for Christmas, they actually mean New Years (same thing to them). When you wish them a Merry Christmas you get a somewhat puzzled look like, gee…aren’t you a little early? I guess what I am trying to say is that you don’t miss it until it is gone. Cherish the season because you could be somewhere that does not have it.

I must admit that last year was much harder though. I had my crazy cat, so that ruled out a Christmas tree. This year I do not have my crazy cat anymore, so I decided to get a tree. Last year I had no Christmas movies or any way to listen to Christmas music (computer speakers being broken and all). This year my computer is working, and I downloaded all the classics (It’s a Wonderful Life, Miracle on 34th Street, Frosty, Rudolph,etc…). The Opel’s were my saving grace last year and invited Murat and I to come to Christmas at their house. Murat had to work this year, but I was able to go to Avcilar to see the Opel’s new house and spend Christmas with them again!

After work on Wednesday I had a quick Turkish lesson, and then hustled over to the fast ferry to catch the only one that goes to Avcilar every evening. I arrived and was met by Kurt and Jonathan. We met up with Anna and David a t the Christmas eve party. I was fed turkey, mashed potatoes, salad, sweet potatoes, baklava, and pumpkin pie. Yummy! We hung out for a little bit while I talked FB football with a young fan who bordered on fanatic . The we went to their new apartment, which has the most amazing view of the Marmara I might add. The boys went to bed and Kurt, Anna, and I played Santa. We knew we would not get to sleep in the next day so we hit the sack as well.

Sure enough at 6:30-ish I was woken up by two excited boys (and a giant stuffed dolphin:). Presents were opened and we had a delicious breakfast. We relaxed for a bit, and then I was asked to read the Polar Express before we watched it. I had never seen it and enjoyed it very much. We had a mouthwatering pot roast for an early dinner, and then watched another film called the Ultimate Gift. What a wonderful film! I recommend it to everyone!!! Then we had birthday cake for Jesus’ birthday, and Kurt walked me to the bus station. It was a lovely time and I could not ask for better friends than the Opel’s. After a short ride I came to Bakirkoy to meet Murat, Mehmet, and Kadir. We went to the mall and had Chinese food before going home and watch It’s a Wonderful Life. I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas too!

Opel’s Christmas tree

Me and Anna

David, Jonathan, and I with their gift from me :)

Kurt helping put together the Clone Wars AT-TE thingy

Mid-day view

Sunset view, just breathtaking…

the heavens

wow

Me and two fake Santa’s at the mall ;)

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Eyup, Yellow Feathers, and Definitely Maybe November 2, 2008

Today I got a later start than I had hoped for. I planned an adventure to the Eyup area of Istanbul. It is all the way down the Golden Horn and I have been wanting to visit it for a while. I only knew about a giant cemetery and a tea garden named after Pierre Lotti (a French writer). I was invited to breakfast (at noon) with Murat’s brother Mehmet, his brother’s girlfriend Suna, his cousin Kadir, and their married friends Ozlem and Ozgur. We went to this really nice place near the Karakoy pier and ate our fill of cheese, salami, eggs, and honey-butter (bal kaymak). It was delicious, but we spent far too long there. A later start followed by another late start. We finally boarded the ferry that would take us to our destination.

It was another beautiful day today and the ride down the Golden Horn was wonderful. You know you have almost reached Eyup when you catch sight of the giant hill covered with terraced white graves. From far away they look rather ugly in my opinion, but later as we walked through them it was quite breathtaking. As we disembarked from our ferry I quickly learned two things about Eyup. One, there is a very famous mosque named after Sultan Eyup and two, it is the most conservative area in Istanbul. I once thought the title was held by Uskudar, but I was very mistaken. I had never seen so many women in carsafs (head to toe black robes, thanks Meagan and head scarves in one place. Kadikoy is the polar opposite to Eyup. Eyup was very crowded today. I do not know if it had to do with the weekend, good weather, or if it is just normal. There were also lots of brides walking around.

We leisurely headed towards our destination of the sky tram to take up up the hill to Pierre Lotti. When we got there there was a huge line and we decided to walk up. This lead to quite the adventure of trying to find out how to get up to the top. There are many small paths that just dead-end (no pun intended) in a bunch of graves. Mehmet finally found a way to the top and we soon were sitting at a table having some tea. The views were very nice but, after all the hype, Pierre Lotti was nothing special. I would have rather explored more down by the mosque and in the cemetery. We did not stay long because we had to catch our ferry back to Karakoy.

Murat called to say he was finished with work and was buying some Yellow Feathers for dinner. Yellow Feathers , or Sarikanat, are my favorite fish. They are smaller and taste delicious when covered in flour and fried. Yummy! I got home just in time to help with the preparation and then we ate and watched  Definitely, Maybe. I loved this movie. I have been meaning to watch it for months but never got around to it.  It was a love story but they do not make them like this very often anymore. Now it seems like  they are all How To Lose a Guy in 10 Days or Knocked Up . This was a rare and heartfelt love story. See it if that is your cup of tea or you want to smile and feel warm and fuzzy inside. It was a wonderful day that ended with my curling up in bed with my latest book, A Voice in the Wind. So far it is awesome, but that is a blog for another day.

The women wearing çarşaf and scarves

Looking down the Golden Horn

One of the many wedded couples

Turkish moon (the crescent)

Eyüp at night